![]() ![]() This look is not for the modern design aficionados among us, but rather for the preservationists and historically minded. If you really want an authentic Victorian look, these same sources also carry cord kits with a medallion plus hook, cord, and tassel. Use metal or invisible hanging wire (think fishing line) of the proper gauge to create a loop between the frame’s hardware and the picture hook above. The standard finish is brass, but House of Antique Hardware carries a few satin white-, antique white-, and satin black-painted options. Most common are ½”- and ¼”-wide versions, with the ½-inch tending to be more stable. Online sites Van Dyke’s Restorers, House of Antique Hardware, and Rejuvenation carry great and affordable versions. Some local hardware shops carry options in their picture-hanging section, but you shouldn’t rely on big box chains to have this specialty item. Once the molding is in place, you’ll need hardware that hooks around the molding’s profile and carries the weight of the artwork. How do frames hang from picture rail molding? Wait for both products to cure before you paint or hang anything upon your new rail.Ī post shared by Carlos Sánchez-García on at 11:32pm PST ![]() Finish with a bead of caulk along the top and bottom edges of the molding where it meets the wall. Wherever you see a divot, fill in with wood filler and sand the excess smooth. Fill nail holes and paint the new picture rail. Then, hammer or use a nail gun to put 3″-long finishing nails through the molding into wooden studs. Use a stud finder to locate and mark these along the picture rail path. To provide support wherever it’s needed, the molding should be secured to the wall studs. If you’re painting the molding, apply the primer first, attach the molding to the wall, and then paint the molding after the wood filler in the nail holes has completely dried. If staining, that’s a process best to do before attaching it to the wall-touch-ups, of course, can happen after the nails. If you’ve purchased unfinished trim, decide now whether you’d like to stain or paint. Stain or prime picture rail molding before it goes up on the wall. You can also check now to see that the molding will be level. This is your chance to determine if you want to move it up or down for aesthetics. Connect these dots with painter’s tape or a chalk line so that you can fully visualize what molding would look like here. Then, mark this distance from the ceiling on all of your walls in multiple places. ![]() Measure from the ceiling down to the top of your window’s opening and take note-this will be the distance from the ceiling to the picture rail. (Don’t forget to make allowances for miter cuts and mistakes by adding about 1 foot to the length of each wall.) Plan for placement. Select a style of molding similar to and no thicker than the trim around the room’s doors and windows. Order enough to span the walls of your house minus windows and doorways. These historically accurate styles are a bit pricier, ranging from $1.73 to $4.27 per linear foot. House of Antique Hardware carries Colonial Revival, Classic Ogee, Craftsman, and Victorian picture molding options, if you’re looking to match your home’s original profile. It’s affordable, too! A 1¾-inch solid pine option from Lowe’s runs just $1.49 per linear foot. Home stores typically carry a couple of options when it comes to picture rails, so it’s easier than you’d think to track down this material. More modern homes and cookie cutter styles can still achieve the look, though. If your home was built before World War II, you might be lucky enough to have this rail running throughout your living spaces. ![]()
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